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How To Lay Block Paving



Step by step guide on how to lay block paving on your driveway and which block paving tools and safety equipment you will require
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    Remove existing driveway    

3 ton mini digger

The first stage is to remove your existing driveway, this could be either concrete, tarmac or concrete flags. The use of a mini digger which can be hired from Hirebase makes this easier and is normally completed within one day with all the debris placed into a skip and taken away

If you don't feel confident driving a mini digger then get someone to do this for you as removing the existing driveway by hand digging will take much longer to do

    Geotextile layer    

Cover the total area of your driveway with a geotextile layer which helps prevent the intermixing of the sub soil or clay and the hardcore yet still permits water to flow freely. This is available from your local Buildbase or Travis Perkins Builders Merchants and is called many names including terram, geotextile layer, weed control fabric or weed control membrane

 

geotextile layer under the hardcore

    Compact the hardcore   

120 bomag 10 ton vibrating roller
MOT type 1 hard core is laid to the total area of your new driveway to a minimum depth of 100mm, your hardcore now needs to be compacted to give a stable sub base for your new block paving, this can be achieved with either a vibrating roller or a vibrating plate. On larger areas or where heavy vehicular access is needed we always use the vibrating roller to ensure the sub base is very well compacted

    Vibrating plate    

For smaller areas where the large roller can't access a vibrating plate is used to compact the hardcore. The compacting of the hardcore is completed when we are satisfied that the sub base of your new drive is firm and has no soft spots. If any area is still soft it needs to be dug out and removed and replaced with more hardcore which is compacted

vibrating plate compacting the hardcore

    Firm edge restraint   

fixing the edging to hold the block paving in place
Any area of your block paving must be surrounded by a firm edge restraint to prevent the blocks and the sand on which they are laid from creeping, either the house walls, fence base panel or new edgings along any side which require the paving to be held in place.

    Block pave edging    

Using a tight string line to keep the front edge of the edging block in a straight line, the blocks are laid on a semi dry mix of 3 parts sand to 1 part cement and hauched front and back to hold in place

edging now finished and held in place with concrete

    Zone 2 grit sand    

zone 2 grit sand to bed the block paving on

Zone 2 grit sand is laid to the entire area approx. 30mm higher than the finished height to allow for compacting. Different parts of the country have different grades of sand and as a rule of thumb get the coarse grit sand rather than a fine grain sand.

Do not use building sand as it is too soft a type of sand plus when it gets wet it turns into a slurry, over a period in time the sand laying coarse will start to wash away underneath the block paved driveway and the block paving will start to loose its flat appearance and start to hold water in the low area

    Level the grit sand   

Using a spade in a swinging motion you need to level the sand roughly to the correct height

level the zone 2 grit sand

    Cover the total area   

cover all the hardcore with zone 2 sand
And continue over the total area until you have covered all the hardcore

    Compact grit sand   

Once you have filled the entire area with sand this needs to be compacted with your vibrating plate, you will see the lines and your footprints going less and less after going over your sand 2 - 3 times. Continue until you don't leave any marks on the sand when you walk over it.

It’s advisable to have your sand harder and higher than to leave any low soft spots

compact the grit sand

    The finished height    

checking the finished height of the block pave driveway
To get the finished height of your block paving we use a block as a guide and push it back and forwards and down into the sand until it is 5mm higher than the finished height to allow for the final compacting once all the block paving is in place

The finished level of block paving should be 150mm below D.P.C. level

    Steel poles    

To get a perfectly flat bed for your pavers to lay on you can use 18mm galvanised steel electrical duct, the type what are used by electricians for putting cables through, they are not expensive but are better than using timber because the piece of timber or aluminum you use to screed the sand will slide along them much easier

Using a tight string line to get the pole to the correct finished height prior to screeding the sand, they are checked for being level or falling towards any drains, 1:60 fall is required, that's 1" in height to 60" in length minimum fall to ensure any surface water disburses into your drainage system or soak a way

using steel poles as a guide to screed the sand

    Screeding the sand   

screed the zone 2 git sand prior to laying the block paving
Once the steel poles are in place we begin to screed the sand to the correct height prior to laying your blocks. When the screeding is finished we remove the poles and fill this gap with sand using a steel trowel to give a smooth flat finish

Do not leave the poles in the sand, they must be removed and the gap filled in with sand

    Laying the block paving   

The next stage is to commence laying the block paving, the full blocks are laid first to a straight line either using a string line or an aluminum straight edge and then continue laying the blocks until the total area of your drive is completed.

The block can be laid either square to the house or on a 45 degree angle. On this drive the full blocks started at the front corner of the house working towards the boundary edge restraint. It was done this way so full blocks showed all round the house and any cuts were only visible at the garden side of the drive

laying the block pave driveway

    Cut blocks  

cut in the edges of your new driveway
When you have completed the laying of your full blocks you need to cut in the edges, this can be completed either using a 2 stroke brick saw with a diamond blade or a block splitter. These can be hired from your local hire shop. Using a straight edge or string line mark the width of the border using a block as a guide and mark a line onto the full block, cut off the surplus and put the cut block in its place, Continue cutting the block paving pieces until all the cuts are completed

    Kiln Dried Sand   

When all the cut blocks are in place brush all the driveway to remove any broken pieces of block or dust to ensure they don't get down the joints between the block paving.

Brush kiln dried sand over the entire area making sure all the joints are full to the top prior to giving them the final compacting with the plate vibrator, you can leave surplus sand on top of the the block pave driveway so when the vibrating plate passes over it will spread it about filling any joint which may require more sand

brush kiln dried sand in the joints of the block paving

    Final Compacting  

final compacting with the vibrating plate
The vibrating plate is run over the total area 2 to 3 times to ensure the blocks are fully bedded into place and any surplus kiln dried sand is now removed

    Block Pave border    

The driveway is now completed and ready for you to use.

block pave driveway and border

    Curved Border    

curver border to the new block pave driveway
Curved block paved border with edging detail
 

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